Here is the kit as received from Warhammer Forge: Main body and terrain piece, Doom Glaive, tail, arms, horns, and back spines. It also comes with a 60mm x 100mm base.
Now, dry fit the model to the base so that you can see how its going to look. You need to think of the overall composition of the piece and look at how it balances not only physically but visually. I've decided that I don't want the arch parallel with the sides of the base. Placing the arch at a slight angle leads the eye through the piece and lends more movement to the model, also enhancing the impression that this is a snapshot of a much larger scene that continues beyond the confines of the base.
I've chosen to mount the model with the base area of the arch attached to the flagstone area on the base. It would have fit on the other end of the base too but that end is far more interesting to look at. The stone area however, has some broken and raised bits on it so I need to trim and sand those flat to make sure of a good bond when the glue is applied. Just use the clippers to take off the excess raised sections then use the sand paper to flatten the surface as shown in the next pic.
As you can see in these next pictures the Doom Glaive is quite warped. This is not a fault on the model but more a by-products of the casting process and nothing to worry about unduly. Long things pieces like this can very easily break if allowed to fully cure and harden while still in the mould, so as has happened here, its a good idea to de-mould them before they're fully hardened. This allows them to be pulled from the mould while they still have a little softness to them, but it can mean that as they continue to cure you can get bends and twists. These are easily fixed by immersing them in hot water til they soften again, then straightening them and cooling them down. I'll do this during the next stage, which is to wash all the bits.
Put enough warm water to cover the biggest piece of the model into a sink or bowl and add a little squirt of washing up liquid. Now us a big soft-bristled brush to wash all the resin pieces. The soft bristles will get into all of the nooks and crannies without damaging any of the details. This step is very important as the moulding process sometimes involves a wax based release agent being sprayed into the mould before the resin is poured. This wax then adheres to the surface of the casting and if not washed off can and will prevent any paint (even undercoat) from sticking to the model. Rinse the washed pieces in clean water and allow to dry thoroughly.
Here is the model now super-glued to the base. Its starting to take shape, but before I add anything else (limbs and weapons will get in the way at this stage and will be easy to accidentally break, so its best to leave them off for now) I need to blend the two together. At the moment the model appears to be sitting unrealistically on the base. Using an old spatula sculpting tool I can add some Vallejo white pumice paste around the join, giving the appearance that the arch is sunk into the floor and surrounded by a small pile of dirt. The paste doesn't take long to dry when used in small amounts like this but will take a couple of hours to harden fully.
All of the limbs, weapons, horns etc can now be attached carefully. Bear in mind that resin is porous to a certain degree and so super glue bonds incredibly well with it. This invariably means that you usually only get one chance to glue the pieces together, so be careful and be sure you know exactly how the bits fit together before continuing.
And so, here is the finished model, undercoated with grey primer which pulls everything together in a uniform colour. Its now ready for painting and I can't wait to get stuck in to it.